Toothless Dragon inspired infant blanket

Toothless Dragon-inspired Infant Graphghan

Hello!

It has been a while since I added a new post; but I have been busy working on some CALs and it has been great! I mentioned a while ago that I am working on an infant blanket and since I am giving the blanket to the recipient today, I figured it would be okay to post the details of it on my blog now. 

Here is a picture of the blanket I made:

Toothless Dragon Infant Blanket

After I finished making the blanket, I decided to line it with a soft fleecy material on the other side and put a border around it. The lesson learned from this is that sometimes, the best intentions can change the final outcomes... I attached the lining on the opposite side of what I intended. However, since it is a graphghan, it does not look too bad.

Final Blanket with liner and border

Anyways, so without further ado, here is the pattern for this graphghan. It is designed as a 64 x 64 count graph if you want to use single crochet. However, that results in a small square, that would not be enough to create a whole blanket out of. You might need 2 or 4 of these to create a blanket that would be workable. What I did was used Double Crochet (U.S. terms) and changed the afghan from a 64 x 64 count to a 64 x 128 count. I am pasting the graph below. And underneath that, I am writing out the exact word-graph pattern so that you don't have to "count" out all the boxes yourself. 

If you are new to graphghans, I recommend you visit THIS post first. 

Graph for Toothless Dragon Infant Afghan

Pattern:

YARN: Berroco Comfort - Black (2-3 skeins), Blue (1 skein), Gray (1 skein), Red (1 skein)

              Vanna's Choice - White (1 skein), Green (1 skein)

HOOK: Size J (US terms)

You can choose to use any yarn that you like... the pattern does not require an exact gauge so comfort and softness can be customized as required. Also, since this is a tapestry type of crochet, it will help to make small balls of each color and move them around if that is a method that you prefer, otherwise you will have many many ends to weave it at the end!

STITCHES: DC =  Double Crochet; SS = slip stitch; CH = chain; SC = Single Crochet

ABBREVIATIONS: B=black, U=blue, G = gray, R = red, E= green, W = white

WORD CHART:

Foundation: CH 130, and 1 SC in third chain from hook and across (128 stitches) 

ALL ODD number rows (1, 3, 5, ...) are from Right to Left and ALL EVEN number rows (2, 4, 6,...) are from Left to Right.

Row 1: 10U, 2G, 114B, 2G  

Row 2: 2G, 114B, 2G, 10U

Row 3: 10U, 4G, 110B, 4G

Row 4: 2U, 4G, 108B, 2G, 12U

Row 5: 12U, 2G, 106B, 4G, 4U

Row 6: 6U, 2G, 104B, 4G, 12U

Row 7: 14U, 4G, 100B, 2G, 8U

Row 8: 8U, 4G, 98B, 2G, 16U

Row 9: 18U, 2G, 96B, 2G, 10U

Row 10: 10U, 4G, 92B, 4G, 18U

Row 11: 20U, 2G, 42B, 2G, 48B, 2G, 12U

Row 12: 12U, 2G, 34B, 30G, 26B, 4G, 20U

Row 13: 22U, 2G, 18B, 8G, 28B, 6G, 28B, 4G, 12U

Row 14: 14U, 2G, 18B, 10G, 40B, 8G, 12B, 2G, 22U

Row 15: 22U, 2G, 8B, 6G, 22B, 6R, 26B, 8G, 12B, 4G, 12U 

Row 16: 12U, 2G, 8B, 8G, 30B, 10R, 26B, 6G, 2B, 2G, 22U

Row 17: 16U, 12G, 28B, 6R, 2B, 6R, 34B, 6G, 4B, 2G, 12U

Row 18: 12U, 8G, 36B, 8R, 2B, 8R, 36B, 6G, 12U

Row 19: 12U, 2G, 38B, 10R, 2B, 10R, 38B, 6G, 10U 

Row 20: 10U, 4G, 34B, 32W, 34B, 2G, 12U 

Row 21: 12U, 6G, 24B, 8W, 28B, 6W, 30B, 4G, 10U

Row 22: 12U, 6G, 22B, 6W, 38B, 6W, 20B, 2G, 16U

Row 23: 18U, 2G, 14B, 6W, 46B, 6W, 18B, 2G, 16U

Row 24: 16U, 2G, 16B, 4W, 54B, 10W, 6B, 2G, 18U

Row 25: 16U, 4G, 72B, 10W, 8B, 2G, 16U

Row 26: 14U, 4G, 90B, 4G, 16U

Row 27: 14U, 4G, 36B, 2W, 12B, 2W, 42B, 2G, 14U

Row 28: 12U, 2G, 40B, 6W, 12B, 6W, 34B, 6G, 10U

Row 29: 4U, 6G, 40B, 6W, 12B, 6W, 40B, 2G, 12U

Row 30: 10U, 4G, 40B, 4W, 30B, 18E, 16B, 4G, 2U

Row 31: 2U, 2G, 16B, 10E, 4W, 4B, 4E, 38B, 20E, 16B, 6G, 6U

Row 32: 4U, 4G, 18B, 4E, 4B, 6W, 10E, 36B, 2E, 4B, 6W, 12E, 14B, 2G, 2U

Row 33: 2U, 2G, 12B, 14E, 8W, 2B, 2E, 36B, 10E, 8W, 4B, 4E, 18B, 4G, 2U

Row 34: 4G, 20B, 4E, 2B, 8W, 12E, 36B, 2E, 8W, 16E, 4B, 10G, 2U

Row 35: 10U, 2G, 6B, 14E, 8W, 2E, 36B, 14E, 8W, 4E, 22B, 2G

Row 36: 2G, 22B, 4E, 6W, 14E, 38B, 2E, 6W, 16E, 6B, 2G, 10U

Row 37: 10U, 2G, 6B, 18E, 2W, 4E, 38B, 16E, 4W, 4E, 12B, 4G, 6B, 2G

Row 38: 8G, 2U, 2G, 14B, 20E, 42B, 18E, 10B, 2G, 10U

Row 39: 10U, 2G, 14B, 10E, 50B, 14E, 16B, 2G, 10U

Row 40: 10U, 2G, 104B, 2G, 10U

Row 41: 10U, 2G, 104B, 2G, 10U

Row 42: 10U, 2G, 100B, 6G, 10U

Row 43: 14U, 2G, 36B, 4W, 4B, 4W, 52B, 2G, 10U

Row 44: 10U, 4G, 50B, 8W, 38B, 4G, 14U

Row 45: 16U, 4G, 94B, 2G, 12U

Row 46: 10U, 6G, 48B, 2W, 8B, 2W, 28B, 4G, 20U

Row 47: 22U, 2G, 30B, 4W, 2B, 4W, 52B, 4G, 8U

Row 48: 6U, 4G, 56B, 6W, 32B, 2G, 22U

Row 49: 22U, 2G, 46B, 2G, 48B, 2G, 6U

Row 50: 4U, 4G, 12B, 8G, 16B, 16G, 2W, 8B, 2W, 8B, 6G, 18B, 2G, 22U

Row 51: 22U, 2G, 18B, 2G, 2U, 4G, 6B, 10W, 4G, 12U, 2G, 14B, 4G, 2U, 4G, 14B, 2G, 4U

Row 52: 4U, 2G, 14B, 4G, 4U, 4G, 10B, 2G, 16U, 4G, 6W, 6B, 4G, 4U, 4G, 16B, 2G, 22U

Row 53: 22U, 2G, 16B, 2G, 8U, 4G, 8B, 2G, 20U, 2G, 10B, 2G, 8U, 2G, 14B, 2G, 4U

Row 54: 4U, 2G, 14B, 4G, 6U, 2G, 10B, 2G, 20U, 2G, 6B, 4G, 8U, 4G, 16B, 2G, 22U

Row 55: 22U, 2G, 16B, 2G, 12U, 4G, 4B, 2G, 20U, 2G, 8B, 4G, 8U, 2G, 14B, 2G, 4U

Row 56: 4U, 2G, 14B, 4G, 8U, 4G, 6B, 2G, 20U, 2G, 2B, 4G, 12U, 4G, 14B, 4G, 22U

Row 57: 24U, 4G, 12B, 2G, 16U, 2G, 2B, 2G, 22U, 2G, 2B, 4G, 12U, 2G, 14B, 2G, 4U

Row 58: 4U, 2G, 16B, 2G, 12U, 6G, 22U, 4G, 16U, 4G, 10B, 4G, 26U

Row 59: 28U, 6G, 6B, 2G, 18U, 4G, 40U, 4G, 14B, 2G, 4U

Row 60: 4U, 2G, 14B, 2G, 64U, 2G, 4B, 4G, 32U

Row 61: 34U, 4G, 2B, 2G, 64U, 4G, 12B, 2G, 4U

Row 62: 4U, 4G, 10B, 2G, 64U, 8G, 36U

Row 63: 108U, 14G, 6U

Row 64: 14U, 4G, 110U.

BORDER: 

Round 1: 1 SC in every stitch on top and bottom; and 2 SC in every DC post on the sides. SS to join and complete round.

Round 2: 1 SC in every stitch and 3 SCs in each corner. SS to join and complete round.

Round 3: Start with any corner. CH3, 3DCs in the corner space; skip 2 stitches, *1SC in next 3 stitches, skip 2 stiches, 7DC in the next stitch, skip 2 stitches*. Repeat from * to * until you complete the round. 3DC in the first corner space where you started and join with SS to complete. Bind off. 

As always, if you have any questions or concerns about the pattern, please feel free to contact me or comment on this post. 

PLEASE NOTE: You are free to create and sell any products from this pattern. However, this pattern itself is not to be sold anywhere. Thank you!

Steve Minecraft-inspired Blanket

Minecraft-inspired Steve Blanket

Over the past few days I have been working on a Blanket for one of my son's closest friends. He is a Minecraft aficionado and I, a complete stranger to the world of Minecraft, was amused to find that it is based on large pixel portrayals of characters. I also learned that Steve is a popular character from the game, and so, I proceeded to figure out a way to make a Blanket representing Steve. For what it is worth, I am not in any way, shape, or form affiliated with Minecraft, so please understand this is just Minecraft-inspired work!

Without further ado, let me write out the pattern for the blanket:

Minecraft-inspired Steve Blanket

Approximate finished size: 60"x 48"
Hook: J/6.00 mm US
Yarn: Worsted Weight; Red Heart Super Saver (RHSS) or Bernat Super Value (BSV), based on colors that I needed and could find.

Colors and skeins used:

1. Dark Heather (tan) - BSV = 3 skeins

2. Black - BSV =  2.5 skeins

3. Sky blue -RHSS = 3/4th skein

4. Dark Brown - BSV = 1/2 skein

5. Medium Brown - BSV = 1/4th skein

6. White - RHSS = 1/4th skein

This blanket is created by forming basic solid granny squares and joining them using the as-you-go method. The Join-As-You-Go method is well explained in this video:

The video shows the method of creating basic solid granny square as well, but I am writing up the pattern below for those who would like it written up. If you don't want to do a Join-as-you-go afghan, simply create the squares and join them up using the method of your choice!

Solid Granny Squares (Create a total of 80):

1. Use Magic Ring to begin or else CH4 and attach with sl st in 1st chain to create a ring.

2. ROUND 1: CH3, DC2, CH2; Repeat [DC3, CH2] 3 times. Join in top loop of CH3 with sl st to complete round.

3. ROUND 2: CH3, Repeat [DC in each stitch up to next corner space (CH2 from previous round); (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in corner space] 4 times. DC in remaining stitches and join in top loop of CH3 with sl st to complete round.

4. ROUND 3: (Same concept as Round 2, just more stitches). CH3, Repeat [DC in each stitch up to next corner space (CH2 from previous round); (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in corner space] 4 times. DC in remaining stitches and join in top loop of CH3 with sl st to complete round.

5. ROUND 4: If you are using the Join-as-you-go method that I used for my blanket, pay attention to the rows that require you to join to other squares. If you are not using join-as-you-go method, you can complete this round in the same way as the previous rounds without worrying about joining - CH3, Repeat [DC in each stitch up to next corner space (CH2 from previous round); (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in corner space] 4 times. DC in remaining stitches and join in top loop of CH3 with sl st to complete round. 

Number of squares per color:

1. Dark Heather (tan) = 40

2. Black =  18

3. Sky blue = 12

4. Dark Brown = 6

5. Medium Brown - 2

6. White = 2

This is a chart I created for following the order of the squares to join. Following this joining sequence will ensure that all of the joins on the right side of the blanket will look uniform. 

FINISHING: I usually tuck in ends as I crochet, but once all squares are joined, trim all extra yarn ends and/or tuck them in properly. Then proceed to create outside border by stitching 1 SC in each stitch of the granny square outer rims, 1 SC each in the small square corners where they are joined, 3 SC each in the 4 blanket corners and sl st to join. Finish off and weave in ends. 

As always, if you have any questions or concerns about the pattern, please feel free to contact me or comment on this post. 

PLEASE NOTE: You are free to create and sell any products from this pattern. However, this pattern itself is not to be sold anywhere. Thank you!

Crochet using a graph

Graphghans are always interesting and provide a good way to bust some stash or create very interesting or intriguing patterns using yarn. In my journey to become a better crocheter, I came across this webpage Learn How to Crochet by Graph. It has video tutorials on how to start and links. However, I found  myself getting stumped with the use of multiple colors and complex patterns that I seemed to find while searching for graph patterns on Google. 

Given my own eccentricity, I decided after a few small blocks that I created, that I liked the size of 60x60 blocks. They allow for a shorter project, and the size they create (almost 12"x 12" depending on your crocheting style), they are very versatile. They can be used inside frames as art decor, or to make pillow covers, and if one is feeling particularly enthused, different blocks can be created and stitched up to make an afghan.

Thus, I started creating my own graphs. I have completed some of them, and am still waiting to work on the others. However, each graph shown below follows some basic principles:

1. The red lines (in the ones that show red lines) are meant to make it easier to count the stitches. You will not be using it as a yarn color.

2. In the square blocks where I have used "light blue" squares, they are meant to designate the count correctly. All light blue squares should be made using the main color (which is black, in my case).

3. Each square represents a single crochet. 

4. If the square has only 30 stitches across, it means that I created 4 of them and sewed them together to create a full 60x60 square. 

5. If it helps, you can write up the directions (e.g. 20 black, 15 red, 25 black = 60 stitches) for each row.

6. All of these squares can be created using either method - by rows or by columns - as long as you use the right hook recommended by the yarn you choose, they should still work out just fine. 

So, without further ado, I present my graph patterns below.
PLEASE NOTE: You are welcome to use all of these patterns for your personal use for making items and selling the items. You are not allowed to sell the patterns anywhere. 

Pattern 1. Graph Crochet Heart: This pattern only has 15 rows and 15 stitches across. But, it is a wonderful beginners pattern. You can create multiples of these to sew together, or use them as the center of a granny square - the possibilities are endless!!

Graph Crochet Heart

To help understand the actual pattern, I am writing down the pattern for the graph below:

CH16 with black

Row 1: SC in second chain from hook and across (15 SC). CH1 and turn

Row 2: SC in 7 sts black, SC in 1 st yellow, SC in 7 sts black. CH1 turn (here on out i will just write the count of black and yellow, since all the stitches are SC. At the end of each row, remember to CH! and turn)

Row 3: 6 black, 3 yellow, 6 black

Row 4: 5 black, 5 yellow, 5 black

Row 5: 4 black, 7 yellow, 4 black

Row 6: 3 black, 9 yellow, 3 black

Row 7: 2 black, 11 yellow, 2 black

Row 8: 1 black, 13 yellow, 1 black

Row 9-12: 15 yellow

Row 13: 1 black, 6 yellow, 1 black, 6 yellow, 1 black

Row 14: 2 black, 4 yellow, 3 black, 4 yellow, 2 black

Row 15: 15 black.

Pattern 2. Graph Crochet Pi: This is a 30 x 30 stitches pattern. Note that the blue lines are shown just for keeping count. All "blue" squares should be made in the main color (black) 

Graph Crochet Pi

Pattern 3. Graph Crochet Pi Value: This is a 30 x 30 stitches pattern. Note that the blue lines are shown just for keeping count. All "blue" squares should be made in the main color (black)

Graph Crochet Pi Value

Pattern 4. Graph Crochet Flower: This is a 60 x 60 stitches pattern. Remember the red lines in the background are simply to help you keep count better.

Graph Crochet Flower

Pattern 5. Graph Crochet Lego Man: This is a 60 x 60 stitches pattern. Remember the red lines in the background are simply to help you keep count better.

Graph Crochet Lego Man

Pattern 6. Graph Crochet Night Sky: This is a 60 x 60 stitches pattern. Remember the red lines in the background are simply to help you keep count better.

Graph Crochet Night Sky

Pattern 7. Graph Crochet Frog: This is a 60 x 60 stitches pattern. Remember the red lines in the background are simply to help you keep count better. It also uses Red and White colors, so it is a 4-color pattern.

Graph Crochet Frog

Pattern 8. Graph Crochet Freehand Pattern: This is a 60 x 60 stitches pattern. Remember the red lines in the background are simply to help you keep count better. 

Graph Crochet Design

Pattern 9. Graph Crochet Darth Vader: 60x60 stitches pattern. Note that the blue lines are shown just for keeping count. All "blue" squares should be made in the main color (black).

Graph Crochet Darth Vader

Pattern 10. Graph Crochet Family: 60x60 stitches pattern. Note that the blue lines are shown just for keeping count. All "blue" squares should be made in the main color (black)

Graph Crochet Family

Pattern 11. Transformer Logo: 60x60 stitches pattern. Note that the red lines are shown just for keeping count. All "red" squares should be made in the background color (white). Ignore the gray portions (2 stitches count) unless you want to add a border, and work on a 64x64 block.

Graph Transformer Logo

Pattern 12. Toothless from How To Train Your Dragon: 60x60 SC pattern. I plan on making this as an afghan from bottom up. I intend to use a DC stitch to make it longer. Thus, I will still have 60 rows, but each square counts as 2 DCs, so I will have 120 columns. I will post a picture once I have completed this. However, feel free to experiment on your own :-)

Graph Toothless Dragon Afghan Square.

Hope you all have fun making these patterns. Please message me if you have any questions or concerns.

PLEASE NOTE: You are welcome to use all of these patterns for your personal use for making items and selling the items. You are not allowed to sell the patterns anywhere. 

Butternut squash halwa

I decided to use up the 1 lb of precut squash my husband had picked up last week from the store. With both kids under the weather (cough/cold), there has been a constant struggle to get them to eat well. I decided to appeal to their sweet tooth and made Halwa out of the butternut squash. With ingredients like saffron, cardamom, and brown sugar, this recipe also provides warmth and should help with congestion. If nothing else, at least they'll get their veggies!! 

Ingredients 

1 lb butternut squash - cubed and then finely chopped in food processor 

3 tbsp butter

1 cup milk

1 cup brown sugar

1 tsp cardamom powder

1 pinch saffron

2 tbsp raisins

Sliced almonds to garnish

Method

1. Melt butter in a pot

2. Add squash and stir well. Cook for 15 mins on low flame

3. Add milk and saffron and mix well. Cook until milk gets absorbed completely

4. Add sugar, cardamom powder, and raisins. Sugar will liquefy. 

5. Cook until sugar stops bubbling. 

6. Garnish with sliced almonds. 

7. Serve hot, room temperature, or cold after refrigeration for a few hours!

Knit-like Crochet Beanie

A few months ago, I got an awesome pattern for a knit-scarf using Gina yarn that I was too tempted to not create! The pattern was very simple, and since it was suggested by Sally from Apple Valley Yarns, I like to call it my "Sally Scarf". 

I have described the scarf pattern on my Ravelry page here and below is a picture of the scarf made using 4 skeins of the yarn:

Now, I am not bad at knitting, but it takes me soooooo long to finish knitting that the thought of creating a matching hat (especially, since I do not know how to knit in the round) seemed daunting to me. After looking around for ideas, I found this awesome Pin on Pinterest that showed how to create a knit-like fabric using HDC crochet techniques.

So, a couple of days ago, I started to make a top-down hat (standard crochet method of starting with a magic circle and increasing), but i was not happy with the way the hat looked and I was having a hard time deciding when to stop, since the yarn is a lighter weight than most regular or thick yarns I tend to use for creating hats. That is when I decided to create my own pattern to create a bottom-up hat.

It is an easy pattern once you figure out how the stitch actually works. Like the original Pinner says on their website, there is a "hidden" post behind a Half-Double Crochet stitch. If you crochet into that post instead of crocheting into the actual stitch, it allows the stitch to "fall forward" creating the look of knit fabric. So, for the sake of the pattern, I am going to call this the "FHDC" - Fancy Half Double Crochet stitch!

You can create this with any yarn of your choice. However, I created this using 2 balls of different colored Plymouth Gina Yarn. Alternating the balls of yarn every two rounds allows for the self-patterned striping which looks unique when done! Since Gina is a lighter weight yarn, I used a size F hook to create the hat. If you choose to use heavier yarns, and/or a bigger hook size, make sure that your initial chain is big enough to fit around your head (where you want the hat to fit). The FHDC crochets up a little tighter than regular HDC, so please take into account that your hat will not be as "elastic" as you are used to creating using regular crochet stitches. I have written the pattern for an adult female head, and it can be adapted to fit any head size as long as you adjust the initial chain according to the fit.

YARN:

Color A: Plymouth Yarn Gina #0009 Variegated Purple-pink shades

Color B: Plymouth Yarn Gina #0007 Variegated Green-yellow shades 

HOOK: 

Size F (3.75 mm) hook.

ABBREVIATIONS:

All terms refer to the US standard crochet terminology:

CH - Chain

SS - Slip Stitch

HDC - Half Double Crochet

FHDC - Fancy Half Double Crochet (see here for details on how to create a stockinette knit stitch using crochet methods - awesome pictures and tutorial)

FHDCdec - Decreasing by FHDC 2 stitches together
SC - Single Crochet

PATTERN:

Main Body of Hat:

1. With Color A, CH 90 (or any multiple of 6 required to fit your head). Carefully and without turning the chain, SS to the first chain to create a loop that fits your head as tightly or loosely as you like.
2. 1 HDC into each stitch all around. Stop after the last stitch and do NOT slip stitch to join the round. Here on out we will be working in continuous rounds. Place a marker (or a different yarn thread) before the next step so that you can keep track of the rounds you are completing.
3. Start  the FHDC and continue until you reach the marker. Move marker up to current round.
4. Attach Color B (don't cut off the Color A... we will pick it up in 2 rounds) and continue for 2 rounds (don't forget to move the marker up)
5. Pick up Color A (should be in the "inside" part of the hat and therefore will not create an ugly look of switching yarns on the right side of the hat). Continue with FHDC for 2 rounds
6. Alternate Colors A and B every two rounds and continue until you have 11 rounds total (Don't count the chain as a round and move the marker up as you complete each round.) - Each round will have 90 stitches.
7. Starting with the next color, now we go through the gradual process of shaping the top of the hat. **FHDC into the next 13 stitches, FHDCdec** Repeat ** to ** 5 more times. (84 stitches)
8. Move marker up, continue using the same color yarn: **FHDC into next 12 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (78 stitches)
9. Move marker up, using the other color yarn: **FHDC into next 11 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (72 stitches)
10. Move marker up, continue using the same color yarn: **FHDC into next 10 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (66 stitches)
11. Move marker up, using the other color yarn: **FHDC into next 9 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (60 stitches)
12. Move marker up, continue using the same color yarn: **FHDC into next 8 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (54 stitches)
13. Move marker up, using the other color yarn: **FHDC into next 7 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (48 stitches)
14. Move marker up, continue using the same color yarn: **FHDC into next 6 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (42 stitches)
15. Move marker up, using the other color yarn: **FHDC into next 5 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (36 stitches)
16. Move marker up, continue using the same color yarn: **FHDC into next 4 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (30 stitches)
17. Move marker up, using the other color yarn: **FHDC into next 3 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (24 stitches)
18. Move marker up, continue using the same color yarn: **FHDC into next 2 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (18 stitches)
19. Move marker up, using the other color yarn: **FHDC into next 1 stitch, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (12 stitches)
20. Move marker up, continue using the same color yarn: FHDCdec 6 times (6 stitches)
21. Repeat Step 21 until you have only 1 stitch left, and bind off.

Ribbed Brim of the Hat:

1. With whichever color you have more remaining of, CH 9. Turn and SC into the top loop of each chain ONLY. CH 1. Turn. (8 stitches). 
2. In each stitch, SC into back loop only. Turn. CH 1.
3. Repeat step 2 until you have completed 90 rows (attach the other yarn if you run out of the yarn you started with). Join the last row to the first row using slip stitch or another method of your choice.
4. Attach the brim to the bottom of the hat by using SC. 

Here is what the hat should look like. I had a little bit of yarn left over so I made a quick pom-pom and attached it on the top for extra oomph!

It is an easy pattern once you get the hang of it. Good luck and let me know if I can clarify anything!

Infinity Mobius Cowl with sock yarn

For the past few weeks, I have been travelling and have only crocheted sporadically. I came across a very pretty and quick pattern from Mikey's website The Crochet Crowd to make a mobius/infinity cowl. Of course, as always, I made modifications to it, but I LOVE the result and had to share!

Not too long ago, on an impromptu trip to the Apple Valley Yarn Store, I had purchased a beautiful yarn called Diversity made by the Plymouth Yarn company in Violet, which consists of 93% Acrylic and 7% Polyester (elasthane) material in sock weight and is self-striping. Personally, I dislike making socks because they take FOREVER and never come out the right size! But the purple/white/pink shades of the yarn were just calling my name. I wanted to avoid traditional striping patterns, just because I was looking for something unique. Since that day, I have been wondering what to make with this yarn.

The written pattern for a Mobius Cowl found here, really appealed to my taste. I never realized that a true infinity scarf is one that has that twist and basically builds up from the middle on both sides! It is a simple pattern, and even has a video tutorial by Mikey that I am sharing below:

With some hesitation, I started making the chain with my yarn. I found out quickly that the sizing suggested in the pattern and video would need to be changed since I was using sock weight yarn, and a size E hook. Instead of the 55 st chain, I created a 200 chain, and proceeded with the rest of the pattern as suggested for about 3 rows (created a total of 5 if you count both sides). It was definitely slightly challenging when it came time to "turning the piece by 180 degrees" after round 1, but once I got that down, the pattern is straightforward to work up. 

Just to throw in a little twist (pardon the pun) to the pattern, I made rows 4 and 5 using the 1DC 1CH skip 1DC method. I repeated that for rows 11 and 12. This gives the cowl an oomph, methinks! The cowl took me a total of 4 to 5 hours, but the end result is a beautiful Spring scarf and I personally cannot wait for winter to be over so that I can wear it... or maybe I will cheat and wear it even before spring! 

Disclaimer: None of the links that I have provided on this page are sponsored and I am not being reimbursed in any way by any of the listed people/vendors for sharing my opinion.