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Tuesday, February 10, 2015

Knit-like Crochet Beanie




A few months ago, I got an awesome pattern for a knit-scarf using Gina yarn that I was too tempted to not create! The pattern was very simple, and since it was suggested by Sally from Apple Valley Yarns, I like to call it my "Sally Scarf". 
I have described the scarf pattern on my Ravelry page here and below is a picture of the scarf made using 4 skeins of the yarn:
Now, I am not bad at knitting, but it takes me soooooo long to finish knitting that the thought of creating a matching hat (especially, since I do not know how to knit in the round) seemed daunting to me. After looking around for ideas, I found this awesome Pin on Pinterest that showed how to create a knit-like fabric using HDC crochet techniques.

So, a couple of days ago, I started to make a top-down hat (standard crochet method of starting with a magic circle and increasing), but i was not happy with the way the hat looked and I was having a hard time deciding when to stop, since the yarn is a lighter weight than most regular or thick yarns I tend to use for creating hats. That is when I decided to create my own pattern to create a bottom-up hat.
It is an easy pattern once you figure out how the stitch actually works. Like the original Pinner says on their website, there is a "hidden" post behind a Half-Double Crochet stitch. If you crochet into that post instead of crocheting into the actual stitch, it allows the stitch to "fall forward" creating the look of knit fabric. So, for the sake of the pattern, I am going to call this the "FHDC" - Fancy Half Double Crochet stitch!

You can create this with any yarn of your choice. However, I created this using 2 balls of different colored Plymouth Gina Yarn. Alternating the balls of yarn every two rounds allows for the self-patterned striping which looks unique when done! Since Gina is a lighter weight yarn, I used a size F hook to create the hat. If you choose to use heavier yarns, and/or a bigger hook size, make sure that your initial chain is big enough to fit around your head (where you want the hat to fit). The FHDC crochets up a little tighter than regular HDC, so please take into account that your hat will not be as "elastic" as you are used to creating using regular crochet stitches. I have written the pattern for an adult female head, and it can be adapted to fit any head size as long as you adjust the initial chain according to the fit.

YARN:

Color A: Plymouth Yarn Gina #0009 Variegated Purple-pink shades
Color B: Plymouth Yarn Gina #0007 Variegated Green-yellow shades 

HOOK: 

Size F (3.75 mm) hook.

ABBREVIATIONS:

All terms refer to the US standard crochet terminology:
CH - Chain
SS - Slip Stitch
HDC - Half Double Crochet
FHDC - Fancy Half Double Crochet (see here for details on how to create a stockinette knit stitch using crochet methods - awesome pictures and tutorial)
FHDCdec - Decreasing by FHDC 2 stitches together
SC - Single Crochet

PATTERN:

Main Body of Hat:

  1. With Color A, CH 90 (or any multiple of 6 required to fit your head). Carefully and without turning the chain, SS to the first chain to create a loop that fits your head as tightly or loosely as you like.
  2. 1 HDC into each stitch all around. Stop after the last stitch and do NOT slip stitch to join the round. Here on out we will be working in continuous rounds. Place a marker (or a different yarn thread) before the next step so that you can keep track of the rounds you are completing.
  3. Start  the FHDC and continue until you reach the marker. Move marker up to current round.
  4. Attach Color B (don't cut off the Color A... we will pick it up in 2 rounds) and continue for 2 rounds (don't forget to move the marker up)
  5. Pick up Color A (should be in the "inside" part of the hat and therefore will not create an ugly look of switching yarns on the right side of the hat). Continue with FHDC for 2 rounds
  6. Alternate Colors A and B every two rounds and continue until you have 11 rounds total (Don't count the chain as a round and move the marker up as you complete each round.) - Each round will have 90 stitches.
  7. Starting with the next color, now we go through the gradual process of shaping the top of the hat. **FHDC into the next 13 stitches, FHDCdec** Repeat ** to ** 5 more times. (84 stitches)
  8. Move marker up, continue using the same color yarn: **FHDC into next 12 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (78 stitches)
  9. Move marker up, using the other color yarn: **FHDC into next 11 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (72 stitches)
  10. Move marker up, continue using the same color yarn: **FHDC into next 10 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (66 stitches)
  11. Move marker up, using the other color yarn: **FHDC into next 9 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (60 stitches)
  12. Move marker up, continue using the same color yarn: **FHDC into next 8 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (54 stitches)
  13. Move marker up, using the other color yarn: **FHDC into next 7 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (48 stitches)
  14. Move marker up, continue using the same color yarn: **FHDC into next 6 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (42 stitches)
  15. Move marker up, using the other color yarn: **FHDC into next 5 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (36 stitches)
  16. Move marker up, continue using the same color yarn: **FHDC into next 4 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (30 stitches)
  17. Move marker up, using the other color yarn: **FHDC into next 3 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (24 stitches)
  18. Move marker up, continue using the same color yarn: **FHDC into next 2 stitches, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (18 stitches)
  19. Move marker up, using the other color yarn: **FHDC into next 1 stitch, FHDCdec**. Repeat ** to ** 5 more times (12 stitches)
  20. Move marker up, continue using the same color yarn: FHDCdec 6 times (6 stitches)
  21. Repeat Step 21 until you have only 1 stitch left, and bind off.

Ribbed Brim of the Hat:

  1. With whichever color you have more remaining of, CH 9. Turn and SC into the top loop of each chain ONLY. CH 1. Turn. (8 stitches). 
  2. In each stitch, SC into back loop only. Turn. CH 1.
  3. Repeat step 2 until you have completed 90 rows (attach the other yarn if you run out of the yarn you started with). Join the last row to the first row using slip stitch or another method of your choice.
  4. Attach the brim to the bottom of the hat by using SC. 

Here is what the hat should look like. I had a little bit of yarn left over so I made a quick pom-pom and attached it on the top for extra oomph!

It is an easy pattern once you get the hang of it. Good luck and let me know if I can clarify anything!




Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Infinity Mobius Cowl with sock yarn



For the past few weeks, I have been travelling and have only crocheted sporadically. I came across a very pretty and quick pattern from Mikey's website The Crochet Crowd to make a mobius/infinity cowl. Of course, as always, I made modifications to it, but I LOVE the result and had to share!



Not too long ago, on an impromptu trip to the Apple Valley Yarn Store, I had purchased a beautiful yarn called Diversity made by the Plymouth Yarn company in Violet, which consists of 93% Acrylic and 7% Polyester (elasthane) material in sock weight and is self-striping. Personally, I dislike making socks because they take FOREVER and never come out the right size! But the purple/white/pink shades of the yarn were just calling my name. I wanted to avoid traditional striping patterns, just because I was looking for something unique. Since that day, I have been wondering what to make with this yarn.

The written pattern for a Mobius Cowl found here, really appealed to my taste. I never realized that a true infinity scarf is one that has that twist and basically builds up from the middle on both sides! It is a simple pattern, and even has a video tutorial by Mikey that I am sharing below:

With some hesitation, I started making the chain with my yarn. I found out quickly that the sizing suggested in the pattern and video would need to be changed since I was using sock weight yarn, and a size E hook. Instead of the 55 st chain, I created a 200 chain, and proceeded with the rest of the pattern as suggested for about 3 rows (created a total of 5 if you count both sides). It was definitely slightly challenging when it came time to "turning the piece by 180 degrees" after round 1, but once I got that down, the pattern is straightforward to work up. 

Just to throw in a little twist (pardon the pun) to the pattern, I made rows 4 and 5 using the 1DC 1CH skip 1DC method. I repeated that for rows 11 and 12. This gives the cowl an oomph, methinks! The cowl took me a total of 4 to 5 hours, but the end result is a beautiful Spring scarf and I personally cannot wait for winter to be over so that I can wear it... or maybe I will cheat and wear it even before spring! 


Disclaimer: None of the links that I have provided on this page are sponsored and I am not being reimbursed in any way by any of the listed people/vendors for sharing my opinion. 

Thursday, December 11, 2014

"Stained-glass" Crochet Scarf - free pattern

Hi y'all,

Long time since I posted any new patterns. I have been preoccupied with finishing some Elsa and Anna hats. You can see them here and here.

Today's pattern is an easy one and all you need to know is how to Single Crochet in rows to create this scarf. It uses 1 skein of Lion Brand Landscapes yarn in Tropics, which is a self-variegated yarn (Color A)  and about 1/2 a skein of Red Heart Soft in Black (Color B). If you decide to use any two other colors, this scarf would still work, but the effect would be different. I got the inspiration to create this from seeing a knitted scarf my BFF made for a local yarn store recently!

PATTERN:

1. Chain 21 using the Black (Color B) yarn. 1SC in 2nd loop from hook and 1 SC across in each chain loop (20 stitches). Chain 1 and turn.
2. 1 SC in each stitch across. In the last stitch, join in Color A, but do not cut off Color B. Chain 1 with Color A and turn.
3. Bring over Color B across to the other side and continue with Color A. 1 SC in each stitch across to the end. Chain 1 and turn.
4. 1 SC in each stitch across. In the last stitch, join in Color B, but do not cut off Color A. Chain 1 with Color B and turn.
5. Bring over Color A across to the other side and continue with Color B. 1 SC  in each stitch across to the end and turn.

Repeat Steps 2-5 until you run out of yarn!! You are welcome to make the scarf as long as you like by adding more yarn. The only suggestion I have is to start and finish the scarf with the same color to maintain uniformity.

For all you seasoned crocheters, out there, the pattern is simple - 2 rows in SC of each color!! Voila!!

Here is a close up of what the scarf looks like:


Sunday, November 16, 2014

Colorful Scarf With Pockets (Collapsible!)



For the longest time, I have been working on checkerboard throws for my sons. I used the pattern from Redheart.com on how to create a Checkerboard Throw, to create them.

Since my sons are young, I decided to make the throw multicolored. After I completed the first 20 squares, I went ahead and put them together to create one throw. Perhaps I crochet more tightly than the authors of the pattern, but the throw barely works for my 2-year old.


I had 8 patterned squares that I had already made for my next throw and no desire to create 28 more squares to create a big enough throw for my older son. He suggested I just string them out like a scarf and he would use it since he loved the textures on each square. I created the borders and the connections using a single crochet joining method shown in the video below from YouTube:


I forgot to take a picture of all the eight squares joined up and laid out, but this is a picture of the next step.




I loved his suggestion and created a string of the 8 squares only to realize that was too long to go around his neck comfortably. The textures in the squares made it difficult to double wrap the scarf around his neck. In a flash of inspiration, I went ahead and folded over one square at each end to create "pockets". 

After I made the pockets, I realized that this makes the scarf collapsible into one of the corner pockets to create a "pillow". Just fold up each square upon the next square until you reach the end pocket.
 Now, you can simply "tuck in" the folded squares inside the pocket to get a pillow!
Pillow/Scarf combination!
The beauty of this style of scarf is that it allows him to go out without gloves since his hands remain toasty inside of the pockets. Moreover, he can fold it back up himself (he is 6 years old) into a pillow for easily putting it in his backpack at school, thereby minimizing the risk of misplacing it! He can also use the pockets to put his hat/gloves/other "secret" items in it!! LOL. 


His verdict on the final product: BEST SCARF IN THE WORLD! I will take that compliment and own it! Ha!!

Thursday, October 16, 2014

Double Crochet (DC) Stitch and Easy Purse



Double Crochet (US terms)

Double Crochet (DC) is an easy stitch and once you start using it, you will realize how quickly you can work up crochet projects. This is why I LOVE the DC stitch the most, among all other crochet stitches. I have found that in UK terms, DC is referred to as a TRC or treble stitch.

It is important to note that if you are creating items for warmth (hats, sweaters, shawls, etc.) or closed effect (purses, wallets, etc.), the DC stitch can create a fabric that is "holey." It might be a good idea to remember this while looking for quick patterns, since you might want to consider lining the item (depending upon what you are going to use it for). I have created many purses, shawls, and hats using the DC stitch. I have lined a few of them, but for most of them, I like to use thicker yarn (size 5 or 6, bulky or super bulky) so that I can avoid the lining, what with my "brilliant" sewing skills and all!

Another reason why I love the DC stitch more than any of the others is that it is the usual stitch of choice for designers who use "shells" of any type or different raised textures for their crochet patterns. Some of the more popular crochet designs out there right now heavily depend upon creating shells, front-post double crochet (FPDC), back-post double crochet (BPDC), crocodile stitches, popcorn stitches, etc. ALL of these, and more require the knowledge of DC since it is various types of DC stitches that create the look of all these fantastic stitches.

So, how do you create a DC stitch. Here is a quick video that I refer to when I teach others how to crochet. Remember, like all new things, this stitch requires a little practice when you first start out, and making a simple dishcloth using the DC stitch will allow you to practice the stitch perfectly.




If you want to create a simple DC dishcloth, use a yarn you are comfortable with (cotton yarns are really good for this) and a Hook size H (or whatever you have on hand).

Start by chaining 24 and DC into the fourth stitch from the hook. Then DC into every chain and at the end of the row, you should have 21 stitches created. Chain 3 and turn the work over. DC into the next stitch and proceed until the end of the row. Chain 3 again, turn the work and DC until the end of the row. Create as many rows like this as you like (I suggest 12 for a square shape), but it will depend on how loosely you crochet.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure to DC into the third chain loop of the previous row in each row. A common mistake for beginners is to forget to create the end stitch in the rows by doing a DC into the third chain of the previous row. This creates an ever-shrinking fabric because you effectively lose a stitch in every row. When I first started crocheting, I made it a point to count my stitches after completing every row. This really helped my work from becoming triangular!


Easy 45-minute Cell-phone Essential Purse

-By Sarita Kumar

This pattern is also available for free on Ravelry



DESCRIPTION:

I made this purse because I wanted to experiment with texture by chaining up the yarn and creating something using chained yarn. I basically created this on the fly, but I tried to recapture the steps to share because the outcome is very cute and handy. It can fit a regular cellphone and a wallet for adults.It can also be made as a purse for little girls... And the best part? It busts some stash yarn in less than 45 minutes from start to finish!!

Just remember, the purse will need to be finished in one piece since you cannot cut off chains :).
YARN: Dale of Norway/Dalegarn in gold (pure wool). If you want to use a thicker yarn, you can skip steps 1 and 2 of the pattern and directly proceed to creating the purse. It will work up fairly quickly!
HOOKS: J and K; NEEDLES: yarn needle to finish ends.
BUTTON: any decorative button or make your own.
STITCHES:
            CH: chain
            DC: double crochet
            SC: single crochet
       SCJ: Join sides using SC in back loop of each stitch on one side and front loop of each corresponding stitch on the other side.

PATTERN:
1.    Create CH with J hook using all the yarn, so that you have a long length of chains. Wind it up into a ball and continue.
2.     Using the chained yarn, and K hook, CH21.
3.    DC in third CH from hook and DC across. Turn. (19 stitches).
4.    Next 4 rows: CH3 and skip one stitch, DC across. Turn. (19 stitches in each row)
5.    Fold at the 8th stitch length and SCJ on that side.
6.    To reach over to other side, SC across the bottom of the fold and SCJ up the other side. 
7.    Continue SC on the side and top of flap and use remaining chains as the handle by attaching back over to the other edge.
8.    Attach button and use the DC space on side as a button loop. VOILA!!




Monday, October 6, 2014

Ghair Under the Chair



The GHAIR under the CHAIR! 

EASY crochet creation with amazing yarn!

For both my sons, one of their favorite books is Dr. Seuss' There's a Wocket in My Pocket. My younger son, a toddler, has taken fancy to the character of Ghair that hides under the chair. He has been obsessed with the character to the point where my husband joked and told me to "crochet him a Ghair one day, just to surprise him."
I wasn't sure if the type of yarn it would take to make a "furry" toy would be easy to crochet or knit with, but I decided to keep my eyes and ears open for a green yarn that would serve the purpose. A few days ago, Mikey from The Crochet Crowd mentioned that Bernat made a yarn called Tizzy. A short shopping trip to Michael's Store and I found it in green!!

I don't have an actual pattern written out for the Ghair because it is difficult to keep track of stitches when using the Tizzy yarn. It was easy to work it up, and I literally free-handed the head, body, limbs, and tail for the Ghair. I made two tiny pom-poms using the Fork technique with black yarn for the Ghair's eyes and crocheted a small black triangle for the nose.

Here are some pictures of the Ghair!


If you would like a rough and ready pattern for this, please comment or send me an email and I will be more than happy to write one up for you.

Multiplication Charts for Grade Schoolers



EASY MULTIPLICATION CHARTS for Grade Schoolers

I typically use this blog only to share Crochet-related videos and patterns that I like and/or create. However, given that I do have a grade-schooler in my house and a toddler, I need a spot to post things I create for them as well. I figured, this is as good a place as any!

I decided to introduce my first grader early to multiplication. He is learning fast, and I figured it was time to introduce him to the visual aspect of multiplication where he "sees" the numbers rather than deriving or observing them.

I created these two sheets because I don't want to introduce him to the 11-20 tables until he masters the 1-10 tables first. I have shaded the numbers in the file that are perfect squares to a add a little additional dimension to the visual learning process. If you would like the Excel file that I created these in, please comment/email me and I will gladly send you a copy.

Feel free to print out these pictures (HINT: If you copy and paste the full size picture into a MS Word file, each one will fit on one page; and it allows you to resize and print them much more easily than printing as a photo.)